Deeluxe Areth Rin Snowboard boot review

This is a review on the Deeluxe Areth Rin snowboard boot. Over the last few years I’ve tried on a lot of snowboard boots. Over the last 4 seasons I rode the Thirtytwo TM-3 and the Ride Fuse  putting in around 200 days per boot.

I am going to talk about those other boots at first and compare them a bit before getting into the Areth Rin. You’ll find a bunch of pictures and a video on the Areth towards the end of this article.

Deeluxe Areth Rin snowboard boot

But all those days on those boots weren’t comfortable days. Lots of pain and discomfort. Lots of modifications and with each of those boots and I bought different sizes. With the TM-3 I got the 9’s at first they loosened up and then I got the 8.5’s.

With the Fuse’s I bought an 8.5 first and they were too big so I sent those back and got the 8’s and rode those for a while and then decided they were too big and got the 7.5’s which were better volume fitting but ultimately too short on my left foot.

Whatever boots you get know they will loosen up

After a couple of days or a week or more they will loosen up so whatever they feel like on day one won’t be how they feel on day 20, 30, 50, etc.

So the natural inclination is to buy them too big since they only expand after you get them, but you can buy them too small too. Or sometimes they are right on one foot or in some areas but not in the other.

I was tired of pain so last season 2025 I went out shopping again for boots tried on a bunch and found the Deeluxe Areth Rin to be the most comfortable.

But it’s always a challenge for me since I have skinny ankles and two different sized feet and one is more flat than the other.

This boot has been sitting in a box though…

The Ride Fuse is a relatively low volume boot. And I would say that is true of Ride/K2 boots (owned by same company) in general and probably Salomon too.

Thirtytwo boots are not usually low volume. Although the new Grenier boot looks lower volume. But the TM-3’s I had were a heavy duty boot and same with the popular TM-2’s.

Are Deeluxe boots low volume?

No, I would not say these are low volume. They are kind of bulky and that’s why I haven’t taken these out on the snow. Despite being more comfortable wearing around the house they are relatively bulky so my fear is after I wear these for a week or so then they will loosen up a bunch and then I will have to fill that space with another insole and patches of foam here in there.

Deeluxe boots in the box

Why did I buy the boot?

It’s a lace hybrid boot with a BOA. Which is what I like and it was comfortable. I like the simple look too. I think it’s a nice looking boot too. It’s quite a bit softer of a boot compared to the Ride Fuse which is rated an 8 in flex. The Areth Rin is rated a 3 I think which sounds way too soft but it you can get a tongue stiffener to raise that 2-3 points which sounded good.

The liner is a little flimsy looking. I kinda didn’t like the straight back of it or the shell. The Ride Fuse liner/shell is better molded and I liked the look of the wrap liner at first, but it added pressure points and little bruises on the top of my shins. It didn’t really flex naturally so I wouldn’t use that type of liner again.

So am I going to take these Deeluxe boots out of the box? IDK. I might so leave a comment if you’re interested and I can give you an update.

I put them on Ebay if you are interested they are a size 8.

Deeluxe Areth Rin back – note the straight back
Deeluxe Areth power straps w/ cushy looking liners
Street skate style soles which are probably good for board feel and they are rubber which is good, but not a lot of tread if you are hiking around
Deeluxe Areth inside view with power strap
Deeluxe Areth side view with the BOA

Deeluxe says:

Whether it’s a crisp method, a fresh pow slash, or a creative line through the trees, the best riding comes from the soul. United by this belief, DEELUXE and AREth have teamed up to create the
AREth Rin. Armed with a classic appearance, it pairs clean design with rich materials and sophisticated technology.

And thanks to its ability to ride any terrain, it’s Kazu Kokubo’s boot of choice. Combining the best of both worlds, its traditional laces offer a timeless look and familiar feel while the boot’s BOA® Fit System allows you to quickly and effortlessly secure your ankle and heel. A rugged leather patch in the ankle zone enhances comfort and durability while further securing your foot.

The boot’s Stage 3 liner provides a truly custom fit while its Skate Flex sole offers unsurpassed boardfeel. Inspired by the boot’s refined design and impressive performance, Japan’s Freerun magazine recently honored the AREth Rin as one of the top picks in the freeride category of its Best Gear Awards. If your riding comes from within, consider the AREth Rin your soulmate.

Related snowboard boots reviews:

Bent Metal Axtion Binding Review

This will be a review of the Bent Metal Axtion snowboard binding review. I rode this in the 2024/2025 season on a Lib Tech TRS. These bindings are made by Bent Metal which is owned by Mervin manufacturing the maker of Gnu and Lib Tech snowboards.

These are a simple functional binding. I had virtually no problems with this binding except for a while one of the toe strap ratchets was funky sometimes it would get stuck when I would try to loosen it, however I mentioned this to Mervin and they sent me a replacement pair which I never ended up using. The problem went away or I just dealt with it.

Compared to the Union Force bindings which I previously had the Axtion have a smaller (more narrow) foot plate which was better. Both the Strata and Force had empty space on the side of the boot more so near the toes. The Force had a toe strap that would slip off sometimes for whatever reason.

I had the medium sized Axtion bindings and medium sized Force bindings but the Force had more empty space on the sides of the boot when I was in the binding. I had sized down all the way to a 7.5 Ride Fuse boot and previously was on 8.5 Thirtytwo Tm-3 boots so in theory I could have ridden small sized bindings, but…

Before buying the Axtion I bought the Transfer in a small and I never rode them. But my size 7.5 looked doable but on the edge of being too big for the small binding so I returned them. If I remember right size 6-8 is a small binding and 8-10 is medium and 10+ is large.

What I liked about the Aktion…

No tool forward lean adjuster

They just worked. I liked the color of the orange black binding kinda like the old Strata’s. I liked the highback shape. I like the forward lean adjuster that you can do without a tool. Although I never experimented with a different flexing drive plate I like how you can pop them on and off easy.

Drive plate and base plate

The base plate of the Axtion looks better than the old Force ones I had. The Axtion has some kind of rubbery material below the plastic between the bidning and board and the plastic has holes in it probably to reduce weight. The Force had neither. The Force was just plastic on the board which would leave marks when you took them off.

I liked the heel straps on the binding as they seemed more form fitting than my previous ones. They seemed comfortable enough.

And I also like Mervin.

What I didn’t like about the Axtion…

Not much… pretty happy with them but if I was to nit pick I think they could use some stainless steel fasteners on the straps. I believe the ones they use are cheaper looking zinc coated ones. Mine have not rusted, but if those are zinc then they will rust eventually.

And one of the straps on my toes get’s kinda stuck sometimes. Either I got used to it or that problem went away can’t remember.

But overall they were good and I would ride them again. I am also curious about the Transfer too.

Check out the Bent Metal Axtion binding on Evo.com.

Related:

Backwoods boarding 2025

Here’s a little video of some backwoods boarding in NH mostly in February and early March 2025. We got more snow than normal and actually got enough about a foot or so settled to finally ride some slopes by my parents house that I always wanted to.

So the east coast was doing pretty good till mid February then it didn’t do much for a while and then came the March meltdown.

Like if you look at the current thumbnail of the video below you’ll see a treed slope that I cleared a bit to ride and I was pretty much thinking it would never snow enough to cover all the rocks on that slope. It’s mostly beech trees and lots of rocks.

I hit a few little ones on the bottom of that run at 00:34. Rocks buried under snow can be a problem because if you hit one it can throw you off balance and if there are trees around then that’s no good.

I fractured my arm a long time ago doing backwoods boarding like that. I hit a sharp rock hidden under the snow. It pitched me off balance and I was near a pile of stumps and brush and it was either go into the hawthorne tree and rubble or do a hand plant to stop so I put my arm down and then kapow it was fractured at my wrist and elbow. Wore a cast for a long time and that elbow still bugs me sometimes.

We also say in judo and bjj “an extended arm is a broken arm”. It’s true in snowboarding too. Don’t fall on an extended arm.

Try to know what’s under the snow. Know there are things under the snow and be light on your feet and don’t edge too hard if you know there are rocks under there.

There’s another clip of that beeches run at 2:03.

I finally got to jump off the ledge.

See the ledge jump at 00:45.

I always wanted to do this, so if you look at the pic above you can see the back of this ledge which is shaped like a near perfect takeoff and I didn’t have to do any work on it except pack the pow down with snowshoes. Then there’s a little gap and then another ledge to the driveway.

I knew if we got the snow you could build a landing since the snow gets plowed near there. So I did a bit. It was a little short and steep though. Too much speed and you land flat in the driveway. Too little and you land flat in the gap.

The run in was a little sketchy too as there are stumps and bushes but I snowshoed a run in and we gave it go. I didn’t die and got the speed about right on the 2nd try.

Logs are fun

Logs and wood features are like so underused in terrain parks. If you ask me terrain parks nowadays are so cookie cutter and almost every ski area has their boxes and rails, mimicking urban skateparks. I’ve been working in terrain parks for the last 4 years and sometimes I hit those boxes and rails, but they’re not my thing. Wood looks way cooler, it’s more natural and it’s fun.

There are some wood parks though. Some cool wood parks are Burton’s The Stash parks which are located at a few mountains around the world including Jackson Hole and Killington, VT has a cool one and then the wood jumps they made at Baldface NST.

Hiking

Hiking has always been a part of snowboarding for me. Whether it was hiking into the upper bowl of AZ snowbowl, off the Bluebird lift at Brundage towards Hidden Valley and Sargents, early season, late season, Tuckerman’s, hiking a jump to work on a trick, or backwoods boarding like this.

Even at the ski area I’ll hike. Sometimes it’s too stay warm and/or to work on a trick. I like the exercise.

The doors I made for my step van

Man these doors have been a lot of work. I made this video probably close to a couple years ago and I have since updated these doors with more rivets, new hinges, a window, plywood interior and insulation.

So originally these vans have a roll up door which I took down and replaced with some doors I made from the cargo shelves that these vans come with. And lots of rivets. Like over 100 per door, plus a few screws and bolts.

The shelves I used from my step van to make doors

Originally I thought of cutting up the roll up door and turning them into swing doors but decided not to. It wasn’t in great shape and was heavy as hell.

I wouldn’t do it this way again as it took a lot of time and they are flawed but I’ve definitely learned something along the way.

Recently I replaced the rusty steel hinges with aluminum. I went from 2 per door to 4 per door. The aluminum hinges were like $30 a piece so kinda expensive.

In this pick you can see only 3 aluminum hinges and the rusty hinges still on the door but they are gone now.

Step van door exterior replacing the rusty hinges.

So I left the old hinges on while I added the new ones which means I didn’t have to take the door down which is a huge pain. Not fun. Well easier to take down than put it back up.

I used some bike inner tubes to weather strip the outside and under the doors which worked great. I riveted it to the outsides and stapled underneath. But I couldn’t use it above as the space was smaller or in the center for the same reason so I used some commercial stuff instead.

I was thinking 2 hinges was probably not enough and I couldn’t put a third hinge in the middle since the lights were there and I saw some step vans had 4 hinges per door so that’s what I did. Two of those steel hinges were probably better than two of those aluminum hinges though since they were longer and had more surface area, but they are steel and rust.

Lots of work went into these doors. I’ll see how they’ll hold up overtime.

Hanging the doors was super hard and they are still not aligned perfectly but best I could do. Too tight where they come together on the top when you close them.

The sides of the doors are strong as they are made with folded aluminum that was on the edges of the shelves.

In this pic you can see a bit of the door on the interior. There is a deadbolt on the top and bottom. I haven’t figured out how to do one in the middle yet. I don’t need a handle outside. I prefer it without yet another lock there would be good yet not sure how to do it since the door isn’t solid.

Van door interior in April 2024

Snow shaping examples

I’ve been working in the terrain park for the last 4 seasons and I love building jumps and shaping.

Check this before and after of a tank at Cannon. Shot right around the end of 2024 when we got 4 days of rain.

After the snowcat groomed it
After I shaped it with a rake

It’s somewhat rounded Holy Bowly style which is like the sickest park in the world. Check this Holy Bowly vid out.

Making fun stuff on the sides of trails

Then there is the side of the trail where you can sometimes find some fun stuff, but this wall ride I made was initially a pretty solid wall of snow left by the snowcat. A solid wall of snow is kinda dangerous and definitely not fun, but with a little handwork using a shovel I was able to turn it into a fun wallride.

I started knocking the wall down with a shovel.

Could also be turned into a hip style jump easy enough but I left this as a wall ride.

Shaping a long down tube

This was built for a “rail jam” Cannon had. It should have been called a “tube jam” because “rail jam” is so cliche. Every mountain has a rail jam. Call it something different at least!

I am not really a fan of rails (especially skinny ones) maybe PTSD from a fractured collar bone. Rails and boxes are kinda overkill at resorts if you ask me. I like snow features best.

Although, I don’t mind shaping around boxes and rails and I shaped most of this tube including the take off. One other person helped on one side.

I shaped the takeoff which went pretty good but it had chunks of chunder in it which is annoying
It’s a long tube with nice clean sides. This was just in that location for a couple of days.

Another wall turned into wallride

Wallride’s are sick. I love banks. It’s kind of a waste of snow to leave it as a wall when you could fairly easily turn it into a fun bank or jump.

No one can get it on it. Either they run into it or they fall off it which isn’t cool.
Now people can ride up on it and that’s fun.

Cannon Crust

Cannon Crust is it. It’s not a myth it’s the real deal. Cannon is icy. Take it or leave it. All the crust and ice you want is waiting for you.

Here’s a sticker I made. Drew a little picture of the yeti and with some photo editing I made the original Cannon Crust.

If you are interested in some $tickers you can leave a comment or send me an email: ileahy(at)hotmail.com

This is about Cannon mt ski area in Franconia, NH.

I made a stencil of the yeti and put it on this long barrel at Cannon too. He said take a hike cause he wants to keep Cannon all to himself.

Image preview

Psilocybe caerulipes

This species is said to be hard to find and I would agree, however I’ve found psilocybe caerulipes growing between Vermont and New Hampshire. And in this post I will share my experience.

It is a small psilocybin mushroom compared to other varieties I have found on the west coast.

At first glance it can look very similar to other little brown mushrooms.

In my experience they can grow amongst pines and hemlocks although it might actually grow best on hardwood. It will grow on wood chips and it’s where I have seen them growing more abundantly in clusters. However, this year less than last year.

Solitary psilocybe caerulipes

Initially I would only see a few here and there, but in later years found them growing heavier where wood chips were placed. That is similar to the psilocybes in the Bay area.

I found these growing along sides of walking trails and animal paths.

The color when dry is light tan and they bruise blue. When wet they are more like honey-brown. Sometimes the bluing is more obvious and other times not.

A small cluster
Some subtle bluing on the stem

Some size references on psilocybe caerulipes

They are usually quite small. I’ve seen some with caps larger than a quarter, but most are smaller.

I’ve seen them growing on rotting hardwood too.
A teeny weeny one with some bluing from the rain
Growing on a pile of rotting wood

Characteristics (check Wiki or other sites) but I’ll simply add:

  • They bruise blue
  • They have a purple brown spore print
  • They are small, usually less than a few inches tall and caps smaller than a quarter
  • They grow on wood, especially wood chips, in intermixed forests, near hemlocks and pines, on rotting hardwood on the sides of trails.
  • They grow from the middle of August-September and then they are gone.

Here’s an interesting interview with Dr. Robin Carhart-Harris on The Science of Psychedelics for Mental Health

How I am insulating my step van

I’ve been using a mix of cork and Havlock wool to insulate my step van which has a cargo area of roughly 11.5 feet x 7 feet. I got two boxes of wool and 2 rolls of 1/4″ cork underlay.

And if I remember right the cork roll which is 4′ x 50′ was near $200 and the wool a similar price per box so I spent close to $800 in insulation. There are cheaper ways for sure but I don’t like that polyiso foam $#@!.

Yeah I like it au natural Chuck.

How I am insulating my step van walls

The Havlock wool out of the box stinks and is kind of dusty and has particles of stuff in it perhaps even sheep doodoo and I found one dead bug in it so it’s not perfect and getting it to hold up is tough. I saw some real opinionated Chuck on Youtube that railed hard against it and pushed for spray foam.

I have no interest in spray foam, but one thing he did point out was that the wool can compress in the walls over time and sink and I don’t want that to happen so one thing I’ve been doing is stapling it to wood, sometimes small wood pieces glued to the van with sikaflex 227.

I am happy with my choice. I want a warm van since I will be spending some time in the mountains riding/living.

Another smart thing I think I did (to pat myself on the back) was put pieces of the cork underlay over the steel ribs in my van that you can see. Cork is a good acoustic and thermal insulator and if you just attach wood to the frame then cold from the outside will easily pass through the steel to wood to your interior.

But if you use a material like cork or rubber or maybe some others it forms a thermal break and acoustic break vs. a thermal bridge.

Originally I was going to use bike tubes here. Bike tubes are made of butyl rubber just like that Kilmat and other brands of that sound proofing mat.

Old bike tubes are easy to come by for free if you go to a bike shop and ask. I was also going to cut these up and use them like sound proofing mat but found the form is not easy to work with. When you cut them up they won’t lay flat and I didn’t find a good glue for rubber to metal and I had the cork which is a lot nicer.

I did however use the bike tubes to weather strip the sides of my rear door that I made and they worked good for that.

Using recycled wine corks in my van’s wheel wells

And then I even collected 3 or so boxes of wine corks to use. I ground/chopped them up which was a big pain in the you know what and used them in the wheel wells.

I thought about using them in the floor, but I spread them out and had enough to cover about 2/3rds of the floor so I didn’t think I had enough. At the time I didn’t think about the fact that when you grind it up it expands so I probably could have done that and built a little frame and put the ground cork between them.

I was thinking I would lose head space though. At the time the only wood I knew about to build a frame with was 1×2’s and those are 3/4″ thick and like $9 a piece. Now I know they have cheaper furring strips that are only 1/2″ thick and like less than $2 a piece.

I could have went this way but like I said cutting up hundreds maybe even close to a thousand was just so time consuming and then I got a blender and it kind of worked but not that well. I boiled the corks first which expands it and then makes it a little easier to cut.

So I got that idea from some channel on Youtube that got “crumbled cork” (which you can purchase), built a subfloor and used that for insulation. So you can save yourself some work if you want to buy crumbled cork.

I liked the idea of using recycled cork and I collected a lot of it. So it’s possible to do but you’d probably want to grind it up and find a way to do that. If you just placed the corks side by side they are all irregular and come in different shapes so I thought of that, but it wouldn’t be very airtight.

Instead on the floor I used 2 layers of cork 1/4″ underlay. Unfortunately my floor is still cold in the winter though I didn’t quite get my stove figured out yet. But it’s doing better now I welded the seams this spring and put an air intake on it which I am pretty stoked about.

But yeah most people I asked on reddit said their floors were cold despite whatever insulation and plywood they put on it.

I got some good wool slippers though.

If I did it again I might put some sort of air gap in there with the cork, but yeah you lose head space and I want the tallest ceiling possible. Ideally I want to be able to do sun salutations in my van which had me thinking of raising my roof or putting a raised sky light in there.

But IDK messing in the roof can cause leaks which I now know. So do so real carefully.

To be updated…

C2 vs. C3 camber & the Lib Tech TRS review

C2’s control, precision & float vs. C3’s control, precision & power

For a long time I was wondering about Mervin’s (GNU & Lib Tech) C2 and C3 camber. I used to ride a 2018 C2 Banana Magic (BM) and then at the end of this season I got a 2024 Lib Tech TRS. The Banana Magic was a C2 hybrid camber profile with camber under foot and a rocker in the middle.

The 2018 Banana Magic was a C2

When I got on the TRS it was a big change. The TRS has the C3 camber which is basically a traditionally camber board with a slight rocker in the center.

I didn’t like it at first. It felt really stiff. It has these riser pads under foot that make it so stiff. It is changing my riding style though. After 3 days I went back to the Banana Magic and that felt weird.

I could feel the rocker in the middle of the board that I had got so used to. It felt kind of squirely like some people say about C2. I realized that C2 keeps me in a more upright position and the TRS made me squat more. At first it felt like the TRS had less suspension or something. I would hit bumps that it didn’t seem to absorb like my Banana Magic.

I did 3+ seasons on the BM and over 300 days.

  • C2 = control, precision and float
  • C3 = control, precision and power
  • C2’s perfection vs. C3’s aggression

About the Lib Tech TRS C3 2024

Up until 2021 the TRS was a C2 board or C2X. Then in 2021 they made it a C3 and then in 2022 they added the riser pads. The 2022/2023 and 2023/2024 seem to be the same board but with a different graphic. And that looks the same for 2025.

I got the TRS at the end of the season 2024 so I didn’t get to ride it much. I rode it for 3 days and then the mountain closed. Then I was thinking of selling my TRS to get something less stiff. And I sold my Banana Magic and I still wanted to hike some jumps at the mountain post season so the only board I had to ride was the TRS.

So since I’ve been hiking with it I noticed it’s definitely more springy than the BM. I just hike some jumps so the runs are real short so you know you don’t get the feel for it. It’s taking some getting used to that’s for sure. Despite being the same length 154 it feels longer than the BM.

C2 vs. C3 – float vs. power

If you look at the pic at the top of the page comparing c2 and c3 then you will see the only difference in the words Mervin uses to describe them is power and float. And in the older description it’s aggression vs. perfection (c2).

Float…

The C2 is supposed to float more. I rode that board in Idaho and New Hampshire. New Hampshire sucks for snowfall, but in Idaho I saw quite a few pow days. The C2 I had above is a true twin with no setback (although I set it back .5 of an inch) but I think it did pretty good in powder. Not so great on the deepest days.

I remember when I first got on the BM after riding true camber boards it felt kind of “surfy” as they say. It feels looser and when I first got on the TRS I was thinking the BM was more agile.

The TRS I don’t know as I haven’t experienced enough but it’s also a twin with .5″set back and camber so most will say it won’t float well.

Power…

As for the power I think the TRS has a more stable, locked in feel to it. When you put it on edge it’s going to charge right through it. It’s stiffer feeling. It carves well. I think it wants to go fast and bigger. It has more pop.

TLDR: C2 vs. C3

The C3 is going to be better at speed, be more stable, have more pop and be more locked in on carves. The C2 is going to be better in powder and feel more surfy and loose.

Pros C2 (BM)

  • Floaty – floats better in pow because of that rocker
  • Looser
  • Surfy
  • Agile
  • Softer
  • Better at skidding a turn

Cons C2

  • Less locked in
  • Less pop
  • Softer

Pros C3

  • More locked into a carve
  • Stiffer and more stable
  • More poppy
  • Better at speed
  • Better at landing big jumps

Cons C3 TRS

  • Less agile maybe not as quick or absorbent of bumps
  • Stiff which means less forgiving
  • Nose and tail presses will be harder
  • Not as good at low speed
  • Not as easy to skid a turn

It was totally different from the board I was used to so the TRS felt hard initially to do tricks on. It felt harder to move around trying spins and stuff.

I’d like to ride it more to get a better feeling for it.

TRS specs

Ok you will find something confusing about this board. I saw someone else make a forum post about it too. So on the Lib Tech site you will see.

TRS specs listed as only a 5 in flex??

But anyways I got the 154 and around the web and from reviewers heard it was a pretty stiff board. I emailed Mervin below and they also said it was a pretty stiff board.

“The TRS is for sure one of the stiffest boards in the Lib line”

And they also said:

…You may be feeling the difference of the C2 compared to the C3. Camber with the ORG-THROTTLE ENERGY TRANSFER PLATFORMS under the binders makes the TRS a pretty stiff board. Yes you will break it in a little. The big thing is the the change of your muscles you use from one board to the next. It may take time to build them up. I would still give the TRS a chance to show you what its got.

But yeah if you check the Gnu Headspace board another one I was considering the 155 is listed as a “6” but lots of reviewers said it was a fairly soft board and not stiff. Hmmm…

Watch the video review

List of Mervin boards with C2:

Contains links to evo.com for more info on boards.

  • Gnu Rider’s Choice C2 – Asym all mountain freestyle, 151.5, 154.5, 157.5, 158w, 159.5, 162w
  • Gnu Finest C2 – Asym all mountain freestyle, 148, 151, 154, 155w, 157, 159
  • Gnu Hyper – All mountain directional, 151, 154, 157, 159w, 160
  • Lib Tech Skunk Ape (C3 and camber also available)- All mountain directional twin, 157w, 161w, 163uw, 165w
  • Lib Tech Terrain Wrecker – All mountain directional twin, 152, 154, 156w, 157, 160, 161w
  • Lib Tech T Rice Pro – All mountain freestyle twin, 148, 153, 155, 157, 157w, 159, 161, 161w, 164
  • Lib Tech T Rice Orca – All mountain directional, 138, 144, 147, 150, 153, 156, 159, 162
  • Lib Tech Golden Orca – All mountain directional, 150, 153, 155, 157, 159, 161, 164
  • Lib Tech Apex Orca – All mountain directional, 150, 153, 156, 159
  • Lib Tech Cold Brew – All mountain directional, 149, 153, 154w, 155w, 157, 158w, 161

List of Mervin boards with C3:

  • Gnu C Money – Freestyle park twin
  • Gnu Wagyu – Freestyle all mountain directional twin, 155, 158, 161
  • Gnu Headspace – Freestyle park twin, 149, 152, 155, 155w, 158
  • Gnu Rider’s Choice c3 – Asym all mountain freestyle, 154.5, 157.5, 158w, 159.5
  • Gnu 4×4 – All mountain directional, 157, 160
  • Gnu Banked country – All mountain directional, 155, 159, 160w, 162
  • Gnu Gremlin – All mountain directional, 144, 148, 152, 155, 158, 161
  • Gnu Antigravity – All mountain directional, 150, 153, 156, 159, 162
  • Lib Tech TRS – Freestyle all mt twin, 154, 157, 157w, 159, 159w, 162
  • Lib Tech Dynamo – All mountain directional, 150, 153, 156, 156w, 159, 159w, 162, 162w
  • Lib Tech Ejack Knife – All mount directional, 154, 157, 159, 159w, 162w

Mervin Camber boards:

Not to be confused with C3. These are straight camber boards introduced in 2025.

*Some of these are listed on evo.com as C3 but if you check the Lib site you will see that they are camber.

  • Lib Tech Skunk Ape – All mountain directional twin, 157w, 161w, 163w, 165w, 169w more
  • Lib Tech T Rice Pro Camber – Freestyle all mt twin, 155, 157, 159 more
  • Lib Tech Doughboy – All mt directional twin, 195 more
  • Lib Tech Jamie Lynn – All mountain directional, 150, 156, 159, 160w
  • Lib Tech Rocket – All mt directional, 152.5, 157.5, 161.5
  • Lib Tech Lib Rig – All mt directional, 153, 156, 159, 160w

Mervin Banana boards:

  • Gnu GWO – Freestyle all mountain directional twin, 147, 150, 153, 156, 156w, 159, 159w, 162w
  • Lib Tech Skate Banana – All mt freestyle twin, 150, 152, 153w, 154, 156, 156w, 159, 159w, 162w

Related bindings review:

Boots: